Stopping at Bahia De Los Muertos (the bay of the dead), we took a hike. I had seen an incredible building on entrance to the bay, and I was determined to find it. Drunk and barefoot we wondered into the interior through the night. We lost Blair, found Blair, and at some point I simply lay down and gave up. I don't remember the morning. We did find a very interesting resort though...
It took a while to finally find out where to buy engine oil, and we later found out the confusion was due to Catherine and Blair's poor Spanish. They had actually been asking everywhere for sexual lubricant. Our reputation continues...
And then we were here in La Paz. It was a good example of how we work actually. The trip from Cabo would have taken 2 nights by engine (excluding the stop at Bahia De Los Muertos), but it took us nearly 2 weeks. With no engine, very little wind, and a current that could easily push you backwards several miles at a time we had a very slow trip, but how upset can you get at laying in the sun listening to the waves and taking in the incredible desert scenery around us? Once again we looked at mountains that had their peaks flattened to table tops by the tricks of the heat on the eye. Blair managed to catch a great tuna after only 20 minutes which provided lunch and tea (we previously only seemed to catch sharks), and then got himself totally covered in oil when he decided to go prodding around in the bilges. He named it his ‘being straight’ day and it seemed fitting.
Catherine left us in time for her flight, and work began on Black Wind once more. We were forced to join Karaka (we first met them in Cabo but they were now anchored here) for a party onboard, and thus had one ourselves the next night to return the favour. Something went wrong somewhere however and we just didn't stop having parties. A great bunch of people and I wish Thomas and Kim and all of the people we met fair sailing and wandering with all of their travels. And couch surfing (Google it) - what a great idea!
So here we are. Fish is free. You only have to sail for a short while and you can grab a tuna or shark which if you put it in a cold box would last a family for some time (there is nothing small out here!). Avocados, tomatoes, fruit, veg etc is so cheap it is unbelievable. I found a baker’s today where doughnuts, loaves and just about most things were the equivalent of about 20p (30c). Street food is about 40p to 70p for a hot dog or taco or tomala or some such item. I found t-shirts for 90p. Water is easy to get hold of, we never use any fuel (I don’t think many people leave such a minimal footprint on this earth as we now do), and there simply isn’t much that can’t be begged, swapped, built, or just not needed.
La Paz has a magical feel about it all of the time, and walking its streets in the day or the night is always a feast for the eye. There is a strong boat community here with radio calls everyday, and organised events of every description in a shack where coffee is served most mornings. It can be a bit too civilized for me sometimes, but it does offer a chance to catch up.
Out here, sometimes it's the solitude that feels good, and sometimes it’s the people. Especially the people though. From the minute you enter a port or bay, you start to meet people and from that moment on it gets going.
It is a happy way of life. While I ponder this I wonder where we will go next...?
SeaClan: Keeping the sheep from howling at the door."